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The Different Periods of
Antique and Estate Jewelry
Jewelry may be dated according to
the style and craftsmanship:
Georgian (1790-1831)
Period defined by the reigns of four King Georges'
of England. The themes most often dealt with nature. Common were
leaves, trees, flowers, and animals. Often stones were set into
sterling with a high karat gold backing. Stone cutting and faceting
was in it's developmental stages. Paste, a lead glass imitation stone,
was commonly used as a substitute for genuine gemstones.
Victorian (1837-1901)
The reign of Queen Victoria was a diverse period.
Queen Victoria's husband, Prince Albert, died in 1861 so black enamel
and jet jewelry grew in importance, as Victoria remained in formal
mourning until she died. Finely worked gold pieces, often with
granulation work in lovely, intricate detail, underlying emphasis on
sentiment, the motifs of hearts, flowers, animals, clasped and locks of
hair, all playing important roles.
Edwardian (1901-1915)
The reign of King Edward VII brought a new romance
defined by lightness, delicacy, much filigree work, mostly set in
platinum, much knife-edge metal work to add a lacy emphasis on white
stones such as diamonds and pearls. Also common were Demantoid garnets
and amethyst.
Art Nouveau (1895-1905)
Flowing, sensual, unreal, asymmetrical lines,
emphasis on women with sensuous bodies and long, undulating tresses,
delicate color, often fine enamel work which, when held up to the
light, is transparent.
Art Deco (1920-1935)
Hard, crisp, geometric patterns, bright color
contrasts such as jade and onyx, coral and jet, rubies and emeralds,
obsession with fun after horrors of World War I. Palm tree broaches,
long rope style necklaces, obsession with speed and science: diamond
greyhound pins, lightning bolts, rockets, etc.
Retro (1940-1949)
Jewelry reflected the feelings of the war and post
war era, and the emergence of the United States as the major world
power. Large scrolls and bows were a common theme. Rose colored gold
was the predominant feature. Aquamarine, amethyst, sapphire and
especially rubies were featured.
Post Retro (1950-1969)
Explosion of the United States as the World's
economic power. Jewelry of this period is highly diverse using all
types of designs and stones. Reproductions of earlier periods become
more prevalent during this period.
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